Care of Silver

Many heirloom pieces such as flatware, candlesticks and trophies may be made of silver, or silver-plated base metal. With a few precautions, silver objects can be enjoyed for generations.

The best way to preserve silver is to avoid over-polishing it. Even the gentlest polishing processes remove metal—over time, this will obliterate fine detail and etchings on solid silver, and can wear through the silver layer on plated items. In the museum, we usually allow silver to tarnish, and leave it that way. The tarnish layer, mostly black silver sulphide, is created by the reaction of bright silver to sulphur-containing compounds in the air. Once the bright silver is covered, the tarnish layer acts as an inhibitor to further tarnishing. But, as blackened silver is not necessarily the most attractive, the key to avoiding excessive polishing lies in how the silver is used and stored.

Some foods contain sulphur, particularly eggs and mayonnaise—these will tarnish silver in the same way airborne sulphur compounds will, and should be avoided. Citrus and other acidic foods will not affect pure silver, but can affect the copper used in making sterling silver and silver plate. Harsh detergents will cause pitting on silver, and humidity will accelerate tarnishing, so silver should be hand-washed, and not put into a dishwasher.

If silver must be displayed, it should be kept free of dust—ideally, in a closed cabinet or display case. Silica beads or gel (like the packets that say “Do Not Eat” that you get with a new pair of shoes) may be used to absorb humidity, and slow down the tarnishing process. Otherwise, silver is best stored wrapped in acid-free tissue, then sealed inside polyethylene bags. Even better, the silver can be wrapped in a tarnish-inhibiting cloth, such as Pacific Silvercloth, before being placed in the bags. These cloths contain silver particles that will attract and hold sulphur, leaving your treasures untarnished.

When your silver does have to be polished, use a product specifically formulated for silver—general metal cleaners are too abrasive, and will remove too much silver. Chemical dips should be avoided, as they can pit the metal, and the chemical can become trapped in components such as hollow stems or handles. Electrochemical reduction (using a warm soda bath and an aluminum plate to chemically convert silver sulphate back into silver) should also be avoided, as the soda solution will also pool in hollow components, and the reaction is difficult to control (and can cause plating to be stripped right off an object!). Various waddings, pastes and foams available are generally the safest to use. If any residue is left on the object after polishing, this should be removed by buffing with a soft cloth or brush.

Lacquering or waxing polished silver is not recommended, as it is difficult to apply evenly. Thin streaks or small holes in wax or lacquer can tarnish worse than if no coating had been applied at all.